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There are many posts online that use an RF receiver and the audio input to a PC to figure out the codes. It sounds complicated but the only hard part is figuring out what the proper control codes are for your set of RF outlets. The microcontroller will receive commands via the ESP8266, translate them into the proper RF bit pattern, and then send that bit pattern to an RF transmitter. The other less messy method is to use a microcontroller to take the place of the remote control. One method would be to wire into one of the remote controls and use a microcontroller to simulate the button presses. Both require the use of a cheap module like the ESP8266. There are two methods possible for controlling the RF outlets from the Internet.
Now, when the logic output is high, it will turn on the new transistor which will turn off the relay driver transistor. In order to ensure that the relay driver transistor is normally switched on, I had to add a 4700 ohm resistor from its base to +5 volts. The emitter is soldered to ground, the base is soldered to the on-board 4700 ohm resistor, and the collector is soldered to the base of the relay driver transistor. I used a common 2N3904 NPN transistor (an equivalent would be OK) as an inverter. The fourth picture shows the method used to reverse the logic for driving the relay. The leads were just long enough on my unit so that I could bend it over to the +5 volt output of the 78L05 voltage regulator. In the third picture we have reinstalled the LED with the anode now connected to the cut pad and to +5 volts. Double check with an ohmmeter to make sure that the cuts are successful. That will allow the second logic polarity reversal to be installed. The left hand cut separates the base of the relay driver transistor from the 4700 ohm resistor. We do that so that after the LED is reversed, we can solder that pad to +5 volts. The right hand cut separates the LED solder pad from ground. Once the LED is removed, we need to make two cuts to the circuit traces as shown in the second picture. The solder pads for the LED are shown in the first picture. The first is to change the polarity of the LED. There are two pieces to reversing the logic. What that means, then, is that we need to find a way to reverse the on/off logic. That complicates our task but it’s probably a smart safety move by the manufacturer. As it turns out the relay may or may not have the normally on pin, but it is not accessible on the circuit board.
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